There is no shade on the road from Phalodi to Pokhran. No trees, no dhabas, not even the illusion of one in the mirage. Just heat. And wind. Relentless wind.

Riding the Thar in April isn’t poetic. It’s a war of attrition. Every kilometre is a whispered negotiation with your body — and every headwind a reminder of nature’s quiet dominance.

But if you must do it — if something in you stirs for the barren beauty of dunes and camel tracks — then let this be your field guide:

1. Begin Early

Not ‘early’ as in 8am. Start pedalling by 5. Watch the desert change colour as the sun rises. By 10, you should be wrapped in shade somewhere, nursing electrolytes and listening to your heartbeat return to normal.

2. Water Strategy > Speed Strategy

Carry more than you think. Then more. LifeStraw bottles saved my ride; two on the frame, one in the pannier, filled at wells, temples, and the occasional army canteen.

3. Wind Will Break You

It’s not romantic. It’s not cinematic. It’s just work. A 15kmph headwind in 42°C heat feels like cycling into a hairdryer. Accept it. Or change your direction and let it push you like a sail.

4. Camaraderie Comes in Camels

Don’t expect fellow cyclists out here. Your companions are curious kids, old men with turbans, and the occasional camel who gives you a slow blink of approval.

5. Route Picks

• Phalodi → Pokhran is brutal. No shade, no services. Only attempt with backup.
• Jaisalmer → Khuri is more forgiving and stunning at golden hour.
• Avoid NH11 past 11AM unless you’ve got shade stops marked.

6. Don’t Chase Speed. Chase Survival

This isn’t a ride to break records. It’s a ride that breaks and remakes you. Slowly. In the silence between gusts.

If you ride the Thar, ride it with respect. Not as a conquest, but as a conversation.
The desert doesn’t shout. It whispers. If you listen, you might just find what you came looking for.